Dijon, Wednesday October 15

Lots of walking around Dijon today, remembering how it used to be, seeing what’s still the same and what’s changed. And eating good food.

First, this scene of a morning delivery to our hotel. Ah, the clatter of small wheels on ancient cobblestones.

A quick drive to gas up the rental car and turn it in, and then we walked back to the center of town past this sculpture, which has become somewhat symbolic of the place (nobody knows why, they certainly aren’t indigenous, but you see little copies in souvenir shops all over town), and the grumpy looking image of the sculptor, François Pompon.

A bit further along comes the new streetcar line that crosses the main square right where the pedestrian area begins. Love those big picture windows. This picture doesn’t show it, but the streetcars are actually in a train, five cars long, and fully articulated. You can walk through the whole thing.

The name of the transit service, Divia, is the Roman name for Dijon, and quite possibly the ‘via’ part is also a play on words having to do with transportation.

Bruce stayed at the fancy hotel in the background on his first trip to Dijon, before we discovered the Hotel du Sauvage.

Rental bikes, another mode of transportation and another play on words. Vélo is the informal French word for bicycle, and Vélodi sounds nicely melodic. Perhaps it has even a deeper connection. Keep reading to learn about the owl.

The Owl

The owl has also become somewhat of a symbol or mascot of the city. It pays homage to a small statue carved in the side of the cathedral, which achieved a fame of its own. The owl is smooth because it is old and because people touch it for good luck. Sadly somebody vandalized it a few years back, but fortunately some one had created a mold, and they were able to restore at least the essence of it. But the owl is recognized all over town by markers in the sidewalk that take you on a walking tour and point out special attractions. And, of course, also as little critters for sale in the souvenir shops.

The old Market Hall is still going strong, but only on selected days. It was open today but just a few of the shops were actually in operation.

The fountain is still there with the three little frogs, the three little children, and a fourth named Jasmine.

We did mention food earlier. Here’s what we consumed today, both meals at places at the Place de la Libération. Lunch was outside, but the light rain had started by supper time.

Pizza is now ubiquitous. The French do it quite nicely with their sense of fresh ingredients and interesting combinations.

 

 Those two pizzas for lunch kept us going for a long time, and for supper we both felt quite satisfied to simply eat crêpes, Sue Anne’s with jam and Bruce’s with Nutella. Sadly our favorite sidewalk crêpe maker from long ago was no longer in operation, but we  enjoyed the light meal in a sit down restaurant setting,

It was also a big day for on-location drawing. Here’s today’s take, with commentary by Sue Anne.

This is the well in the court yard of our hotel.

I love to draw elaborate iron gates. This one frames Dijon’s memorial archway which is like the L’Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

Most of the architecture in Dijon is from 1880 to present day. There are a few medieval structures and they do look ancient and dirt covered. This block is empty on the upper floors and modern on the ground floor. The sign in red says “I no longer smoke, I vapor.”

 President Woodrow Wilson is well remembered in Dijon. This park is called Place Wilson, pronounced as ‘Plahss Veel-sohn’. It was very close to my apartment from my student days.

 My apartment building is sort of boring looking in beige stucco.  So I drew the nice looking 1900 era house which I saw every day from the kitchen.

A major gathering point in Dijon is called the Place De La Libération. It is a semi circle facing the ducal palace. Here is the finish to my pizza meal, an espresso plus a cookie, not yet unwrapped, marked ‘Instant Pleasure’. The orange place mat and the red cushions against the yellow stone made for a fun drawing experience.

 

I couldn't draw the elaborate Dukes’ Palace, nor the large semi-circle that faces it, but I could draw a small part of the line of shops. This particular shop that now sells regional specialities including mustard was once the location of a very fine jewelry store that was owned by my landlord and his wife. They kindly resized the engagement ring that Bruce presented to me on his trip to Dijon in October 1966, and offered the service at a prix d’une amie.

The Place De La Libération, and much of the downtown too, is now all a pedestrian zone.  No more small, smelly cars zipping by too close, too fast. Hooray.